THE WRITE OF HIS LIFE. By Judy Foreman and Guillaume Doane.
“Zambezi sharks are one of the world’s most dangerous predators,” Montecito surfer Shaun Tomson writes in the first sentence of his new book, “Surfer’s Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life.”
In one of the most impacting opening passages, Tomson recounts an encounter with a Zambezi shark at South Beach off the coast of Durban, South Africa, in which his father, Chony, was attacked, lifting his body completely out of the water and tearing off most of his right biceps. His near-death, or surprising survival, became “local legend,” but despite the trauma, Tomson’s dad always encouraged his son not to “turn his back on the ocean.”
“He never gave up on his love for the ocean, and he instilled that love in me from a very young age,” Tomson writes.
